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19.02.11: E-Mail aus Kairo #1 | Drucken |
Ägypter feiern die Befreiung
Letzten Freitag stürzte Mubarak, eine Woche später jubeln Hunderttausende auf dem Tahrir-Platz. Mit einem Bericht von der Siegesfeier beginnt das Internettagebuch von Philip Bethge, der zehn Tage lang für marx21.de aus Ägypten berichten wird

Ein Demonstrant feiert am »Freitag des Sieges« auf dem Tahrir-Platz (Foto: Flickr.com/3arabawy CC BY-NC-SA)
Ein Demonstrant feiert am »Freitag des Sieges« auf dem Tahrir-Platz (Foto: Flickr.com/3arabawy CC BY-NC-SA)
Fr, 18.02.11: Heute ist mein erster Tag in Ägypten. Bin um 2.30 Uhr gelandet und im Flughafen ist die Atmosphäre ganz anders als das letzte Mal, als ich in Kairo war (mehr dazu vielleicht in einer späteren E-Mail). Damals haben misstrauische Soldaten alle Passagiere gecheckt und man konnte sich nie sicher sein, ob sie einen reinlassen würden. Diesmal sind die Soldaten weg - jedenfalls vom Flughafen.

Auf den Autobahnen ist es anders. Viele Straßen sind gesperrt, manchmal mit Panzern. Jeden Kilometer kontrolliert eine Gruppe von Soldaten Führerscheine und Pässe kontrollieren. Manchmal kommen wir durch, manchmal müssen wir einen anderen Weg finden. Eine Erinnerung daran, dass in Ägypten immer noch die Armee herrscht.

Teil des neuen Ägypten

Aber diese Soldaten sind anders als Mubaraks Truppen, die die Flughäfen kontrollieren mussten. Sie sehen jünger aus, und alle lachen. Alle quatschen mit den Autofahrern, als ob sie sich nicht sicher sind, was sie hier zu tun haben. Es mag sein, dass diese Truppen später einmal den Befehl bekommen werden, auf Demonstranten zu schießen, und sich entscheiden müssen, auf welcher Seite sie stehen, aber bis jetzt sind sie auch Teil des neuen Ägypten.

Einige Stunden Schlaf und dann ist es Zeit, mich in Kairo umzuschauen. Ich treffe mich mit einer Kollegin von der LINKEN in Berlin, die auch hier ist, um die ägyptische Revolution selbst zu erfahren. Alle Hotelmitarbeiter schauen im Fernsehen Massendemonstrationen an. Es gab in den letzten Tagen so viele Aufstände im arabischen Raum, dass es unklar ist, welches Land gezeigt wird.

»Platz der Befreiung«

Sie fragen uns, ob wir auf den »Platz der Befreiung« gehen. So ist der Tahrir-Platz, der eigentlich »Platz der Freiheit« heißt, inoffiziell umbenannt worden. Natürlich, sagen wir, und sie gratulieren uns, neidisch, dass sie selbst bei der Arbeit bleiben müssen.

Obwohl wir nicht sicher waren, wie man den Tahrir-Platz erreicht, brauchen wir letztendlich keinen Stadtplan. Leute strömen von überall her dorthin, nur in eine Richtung. Die meisten tragen ägyptische Fahnen, oder T-Shirts, auf denen der 25. Januar genannt wird, »der Tag, als Ägypten befreit wurde«. Alle möglichen Altersgruppen sind dabei, Männer und Frauen, oft mit der ganzen Familie. Und alle sind glücklich.

Ehrengäste aus Europa

Eine Million werden heute erwartet, aber ab einer bestimmten Menge ist es unmöglich zu schätzen, wie viele Leute wirklich anwesend sind. Der Tahrir-Platz und alle angrenzenden Straßen sind in allen Richtungen brechend voll. Heute ist keine Demonstration - es ist eher ein Fest. Wir bleiben einfach auf dem Platz - ohne großen Plan, manchmal läuft ein Demozug eine Straße entlang und begrüßt einen anderen Zug, der aus einer anderen Richtung kommt. Es gibt keinen anderen Ort, jeder weiß, dass er heute hier sein muss.

Als fast die einzigen Europäer ziehen wir besonderes Interesse auf uns. Vor einer Woche sind wir gewarnt worden, es sei zu gefährlich, nach Ägypten zu fahren, weil Mubaraks Truppen Ausländer angegriffen haben. Jetzt aber sind wir Ehrengäste. Wir werden ständig gefragt, woher wir kommen, und viele wollen sich mit uns fotografieren lassen. Ein paar Männer küssen mich. Zwei Jungs bieten mir die Hand - direkt danach eine Frau in voller Burka.

Demokratischer Aufstand

Manche sind verwirrt, dass wir auch ägyptische Fahnen tragen: »Aber ihr seid keine Ägypter«. »Heute sind wir alle Ägypter«, sagen wir. Jetzt verstehen sie. Sie sind stolz auf das, was sie geschafft haben. Dies ist keine nationalistische Demonstration wie die, wo deutsche oder US- oder israelische Fahnen fliegen. Die Fahnen sind ein Zeichen dafür, dass die normale Bevölkerung Ägypten endlich für sich zurückgewonnen hat, nach Jahrhunderten der Besatzung oder Marionettenregierung der USA.

Wir hören oft, dass wir der Welt erzählen sollen, was wir erleben. Viele haben Angst, dass die ägyptische Revolution in der ausländischen Presse falsch dargestellt wird. Mehrere selbstgemachte Plakate in verschieden Sprachen betonen den demokratischen und gewaltlosen Charakter des Aufstands. Die Gewalttäter, die versucht haben, eine Konterrevolution anzufachen, sind momentan in der Defensive. Soldaten lassen Kinder mit Fahnen auf ihre Panzer, um sich fotografieren zu lassen. Sie stehen momentan an der Seite der Bevölkerung.

Feiern, dann Lösungen suchen

Es gibt eine gewisse Unklarheit darüber, was jetzt passieren soll. Alle wissen, dass sie nicht einfach nach Hause gehen können, aber wenn wir fragen, was jetzt kommen soll, kriegen wir keine klare Antwort. Alle sind froh, dass Mubarak und Suleiman weg sind, und misstrauen der jetzigen Militärregierung, aber kurzfristig ist die Meinung eher, jetzt zu feiern, und danach über Lösungen zu reden.

In diesem Sinn ist die ägyptische Revolution sowohl höchst politisch als auch politisch relativ inhaltsleer. Politisch, weil die Ägypter einen Diktator gestürzt haben und wissen, dass sie auf der Straße bleiben müssen, um die Erfolge von 25. Januar zu verteidigen. Unpolitisch, weil es kaum politische Debatte gibt. Ich habe vielleicht zwei Flyer gesehen - nicht zwei Gruppen von Flyerverteilern, sondern zwei Stück. Sozialisten haben eine wichtige Rolle in der Veränderung von Ägypten gespielt, aber die Bewegung ist zu groß, um sie wirklich zu sehen. Niemand hat jetzt die Hegemonie in der Bewegung.

Instabile Situation

Die Situation kann aber nicht immer so bleiben. Das Militär ist immer noch an der Macht und muss irgendwann entscheiden, ob es seine Soldaten benutzen kann, um die Bewegung aufzulösen. Momentan scheint das nicht möglich zu sein, aber sobald die Bewegung nicht mehr nach vorne geht, kann alles schnell rückwärts gehen. So etwas gab es schon - nicht zuletzt in Frankreich 1968 oder in Chile 1973, als rechte Regierungen die Macht behielten oder übernahmen, nachdem nur eine halbe Revolution durchgeführt wurde. In diesen Fällen war es letztendlich entscheidend, dass die linken Kräfte nicht stark genug waren, um die Revolution zum Ende zu bringen.

Es ist noch zu früh zu sagen, wie es in Ägypten weitergehen wird. Auf jeden Fall haben die Ägypter sich eine große Feier verdient. Am Abend gibt es ein Konzert auf dem Tahrir-Platz. Wir werden hingehen, und in der nächsten E-Mail werde ich ein bisschen davon erzählen.

Zur Person:
Philip Bethge wird ab dem 27. Februar wieder in Deutschland sein und steht für Berichte und Veranstaltungen zur Verfügung. Wer ihn auch einladen möchte, kann per E-Mail an Diese E-Mail-Adresse ist gegen Spam-Bots geschützt, du musst Javascript aktivieren, damit du sie sehen kannst mit ihm in Kontakt treten

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